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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.